Sunday, October 18, 2015

A Quickie in the Afternoon

My kid loves borscht. Like, LOVES it. And I am happy that it does, but the fact is that my full-on, fairly authentic borscht is not a 30-minute meal by a long shot -- it takes a day to make the rich beef broth, cool and skim it, and then make the actual soup.

But she keeps asking for it, and I don't want to deny her, so today I had the most brilliant brainstorm ever. I have a huge jar of pickled beets in the fridge -- I used this recipe, but without sealing the jars (I just screwed on a lid and stuck it in the fridge). And I thought: hmm. I wonder if I could make borscht with pickled beets? And maybe instead of homemade beef broth I could use some of the chicken broth I made a couple of days ago?

Sunday, October 11, 2015


It almost hurts, it's so beautiful in the Berkshires right now. That super clear, cool light, the growing intensity of the leaves on the trees. Flowers in my garden are exuding their last burst of energy, with showy nastrutiums and marigolds looking ridiculously overdressed against the drab foliage of the surrounding plants which are ready to call it a night.

Sunday, September 20, 2015

For Maria

Two lamb stew recipes, no big whoop, for my friend Maria.

Moroccan Lamb Stew with Merguez
Serves 5

Merguez is a North African lamb sausage. I can find it in my organic coop; if you can't get your hands on it you can leave it out and up the amoung of boneless leg of lamb to 1.5 lb. This stew also benefits from the addition of zucchini or winter squash, cubed, if you'd like.

Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Cooking my way through my CSA share, Indian-style

I went to my farm yesterday and was overwhelmed -- in a good way. I am overwhelmed by the bounty of it all. Purple carrots, fennel, hot chilies, salad greens, tomatillos, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet onions, shiso leaf, an armful of flowers... And that's not even half of what's available. Canned 4 jars of tomatillo salsa verde last night, and will make more today just to eat now. Pickled some carrots with Moroccan spices, and made pickled beets, and canned the tomatoes from my garden that have accumulated on my counter. I have these jewel-filled jars piling high now, and it's making me feel very rich indeed.

Two recipes that take advantage of what's in season now.

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Pickled Beets are a metaphor for nothing

Okay here's the thing: I seem to have run out of things to say. I considered just stopping the blog -- it's run its course, served its purpose -- but sometimes I just want to post recipes, you know? So. Just a recipe. These are insanely good. I used baseball-sized (not softball-sized -- know your sports), very fresh beets.

Pickled Beets
Makes 4 pints

Saturday, July 11, 2015

STOP THE PRESSES: I found a use for kohlrabi!

I actually love kohlrabi, but I can never think of what to do with it. So in the past, that's meant that I've picked it up at my CSA farm, left it in the fridge till it's a bit tough, and then half-heartedly thrown it into something. Not smart, because perfectly fresh it has a lovely taste -- a crunch like an apple and a flavor like broccoli stems (which I happen to adore).

Picked some gorgeous ones up today from Caretaker Farm, determined to do right by them, along with some fat, tall scallions. I had some pork belly in the freezer -- an impulse buy at the Asian grocery a little while ago. A little prep, a few Chinese sauces, and voilà -- twice-cooked pork with hot bean sauce, one of my favorite restaurant dishes.

Twice-Cooked Pork with Hot Bean Sauce
Serves 4-6, as part of a Chinese meal

The hot bean paste is a staple of the Chinese kitchen, and many well-stocked grocery stores will have it in their international section. Lee Kum Kee makes a version called "Chili Bean Sauce." It also goes by the name of toban djan or Pixian bean sauce. This dish uses pork belly, aka bacon before it's cured and smoked. Needless to say, a little goes a long way.

Monday, June 29, 2015

Sambar and Pseudo-Psambar, or the Provisional Post

I have been gone a loooong time, and I feel like I should apologize for that. Life, as it often is, has been particularly complex lately, with more balls than usual to juggle. But summer is here and with it comes bounteous farmer's markets and enthusiastic gardening, and something's got to happen with all that food....

I've joined a new CSA this year -- Caretaker Farm in Williamstown, one of the oldest CSAs in the country. It is structured as a true cooperative: all the members buy into the farm, and all of the produce produced by the farm is shared among us. Don and Bridget and their kids Micah and Gabriela encourage members to use the land and consider it our own, and there are lots of streams and fields and vistas to explore even if it's not a pick-up day. And even better, as far as I'm concerned, is that we are all obligated to work at the farm in order to be full members of the community; I even signed up for a "working share" in which I get a discount on the CSA rate in exchange for more hours of labor.

Saturday, February 14, 2015

What to Cook for Valentine's Day

In the last few months of my marriage, when things were beyond awful and we were barely holding things together and I was mad with grief and other things, an old boyfriend of mine from when I was very young, someone I hadn't laid eyes on in over twenty years, started emailing me. And, like a woman clutching for a life-raft, I threw myself into this epistolary romance full force, thinking myself, briefly, in love. It was a fantasy, of course, and one that could only be sustained because we never met: we were still, to each other, those beautiful children full of naïveté and hope. He gave me things that I was desperately craving: attention, most of all, but also a window to who I had been once before -- before those many years of a marriage that never quite fit, before motherhood, before losing myself (through no one's fault but my own).

While my ex and I certainly spent a lot of time together in the kitchen, we didn't think of food in the same way: for him, it was about the finished product, the meal to be savored at the end, the opportunity to match a dish with wine. He was an epicurean, I suppose. For me, being in the kitchen was the goal in itself, and the meal was simply the consequence of the pleasures of cooking, of a pleasure of the hands and the brain. It was a subtle difference, but a difference nonetheless.

When my old boyfriend started writing to me, and we were catching up on everything we'd missed after decades of not keeping in touch, I found out he was a restaurateur. I was surprised: I'd never known him to be interested in cooking, although perhaps that had more to do with the tumultuousness and secrecy of our relationship back then, more than a reflection of his actual interests. He wrote to me now that he loved kitchens, everything about them -- cooking in them, even cleaning them, making bread all day, letting a broth simmer. I understood exactly what he meant.

We would fantasize a lot about meeting, knowing that it would never happen -- we were both married, and were both working hard to convince ourselves that a little letter writing wasn't going to interfere with our love for our respective spouses. The pleasure of this correspondence was precisely this opportunity to fantasize, to imagine our ways to happiness, not even necessarily with each other. For me, it meant thinking, for the first time in many years, about living a life without my husband next to me. It was a sadly crucial step for me -- sadly, because it hurt people, me not least of all, but still crucial.

In one of these exchanges, when we were talking about what it would be like if we ever met, I asked what he would cook for me. I hated when my husband cooked for me, only because he was so stressed out about everything turning out perfectly that it was never fun. (That could well have been my fault -- did I hover? Did I criticize, or pass judgement, with my raised eyebrows or facial expressions? I could have. It's certainly possible. I don't want to suggest that this was his fault; it just was.) But the idea of my old boyfriend cooking for me -- that was a seductive idea. It seemed like such a sexy prospect.

I don't remember all the details of his reply, but I remember champagne and oysters, and maybe a celery and celeriac soup, and I remember some sort of chicken (a perfectly roasted chicken, perhaps? But no, I think he nixed that idea because it would require too much attention), and steamed bok choy which I thought was an odd choice.

I was disappointed that he didn't ask me in return -- what would I cook for him? -- because at the time I probably had ideas. But when I sat down to write this post today, I realized that I don't anymore -- don't have ideas, that is, for a romantic dinner with someone I adore. The mere possibility of it seems so remote that I've stopped thinking in those terms, and instead imagine other meals: with my daughter, with friends, even with crowds of virtual acquaintances I know from Facebook. I knew I would never cook for that old boyfriend, but I would have been happy to imagine the possibility, back then. Now I don't even bother with the imagining.

In case you're curious, the correspondence ended at more or less exactly the same time as my marriage did. It became too real at that point -- there was nothing standing in the way (for me, at least), and that was too much for the fantasy to bear. I kept the letters for a while, and then, after some years, read them again -- hundreds of them, written over the course of a few months, several times a day -- and wept for the woman who wrote them: for her silliness and pain and banality and blindness. And I realized I didn't know her anymore. And I deleted them, dried my eyes, and went off to cook dinner.

Braised Brest of Veal with Onion and Mushroom Stuffing
Serves 6

This is what I made to celebrate Valentine's Day with my daughter. I had picked up a breast of veal at Fairway a while back, thrilled by the prospect of that cut, so old-fashioned and French-seeming, one that is hard to come by in this neck of the woods. It takes well to a slow braise, and produces an unctuous sauce. There's not a huge amount of meat on the cut, so stuffing it by cutting a pocket near the bones and filling with an herbal, aromatic mix is a good idea. Serve this with roasted baby potatoes and sautéed greens.

1 veal breast, bone-in, with 3-4 ribs (about 4.5 lbs), at room temperature
2 TB olive oil, divided
2 oz pancetta, cut into a small dice
4-6 cippoline onions, peeled and sliced into 1/4" wedges to make 1 heaping cup
1 c diced mushrooms (I used a mix of shitake and cremini)
1.5 TB mixed herbs of your choice, minced (I used fresh thyme, rosemary, and sage)
kosher salt and freshly-ground pepper
1.5 c fresh breadcrumbs (made from 3 slices of French bread, whizzed in the food processor)
1 onion, cut into a 1" dice
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1" pieces
2 stalks celery, cut into 1" pieces
1 large head of garlic, papery skin removed and cut in half
bouquet garni composed of herbs (thyme, rosemary, parsley, bay leaves) tied with kitchen string
1/2 bottle white wine
1-2 c chicken stock
3 TB whole grain mustard
juice of half a lemon

Making the pocket. Picture by my daughter.
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Using a sharp paring knife or a boning knife, cut a pocket in the veal breast. You are going to cut from the thin side of the breast toward the thick meaty part, right along the rib bones, keeping your knife angled a bit towards the bone and cutting with the sharp tip. Leave a 1" margin of meat around the pocket (i.e. don't cut right through). Set aside on a plate.
2.  In a skillet, heat 1 TB olive oil and pancetta over medium high heat, and cook pancetta until most of its fat renders. Add the onions and a pinch of kosher salt and sauté until golden brown. Add mushrooms and herbs, along with a pinch of salt and a generous amount of freshly-ground pepper. Sauté for about 5 minutes or until the mushrooms are reduced soft and wilted. Transfer to a bowl, mix in breadcrumbs, and check for seasoning.

3. Stuff the veal breast with the stuffing, pushing deep into the pocket you've cut using a spoon or your hands; "massage" the veal from the outside to distribute the stuffing and make sure you haven't missed a spot. Tie in three or for places with kitchen string. Season the outside of the roast generously with kosher salt and pepper.

4. In a braising pan or roasting pan, heat 1 TB olive oil over medium high heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic and sauté with a healthy pinch of salt until onions just start to soften. Push the vegetables to the outside of the pan and place the veal breast in the center, meaty side up. Place uncovered in oven for 25 minutes, so that the veal breast can sear.

5. Take the pan out of the oven, and adjust the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Place the pan on a burner over medium-high heat. Add the white wine and enough chicken broth to come about half way up the side of the meat, along with the bouquet garni. When the liquid comes to a boil, cover the pan -- either with a lid or a couple of layers of heavy duty foil. Return to the oven and allow to braise slowly for 3.5 hrs.

6. Remove foil from pan, slather the top of the veal breast with the mustard, and allow to roast for another 30 minutes.

7. When done, remove the pan from the oven. Take the veal breast out of the sauce and place it on a cutting board, loosely covered with foil. Strain the liquid left in the pan into a large measuring cup, reserving the roasted garlic pieces. Skim as much fat as you can off the pan juices, and transfer to a saucepan; bring to a simmer over medium heat. Squeeze the garlic flesh out of its skins and add to the sauce (discard the skins). Taste for salt; add a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavor if necessary.

8. Slice the veal breast and arrange on a platter with the sauce strained over. Note: this meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, so it will not slice cleanly. If you'd like very proper slices, you can refrigerate the stuffed veal overnight on a platter (refrigerate the sauce separately). The next day, slice it, lay the pieces in a baking dish, baste with the sauce, and reheat in a 400 degree oven till warmed through.

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Green, In Lieu of Spring

January was a tough month for me here in the Berkshires. I grew up in a place that was cold and windy, but always had sun, even in the depths of winter. The brightness of the sky made up for the shortness of the days -- the sun might only be out for less than 8 hours a day but it was dazzling when it was. It hardly rained, and the chinook winds blew away any clouds that might have the temerity to show up. If it snowed, the warmth of the chinooks would eat up the drifts in short order.

Saturday, February 7, 2015

The Project: What I've been up to

Dulce de leche, made in the pressure cooker.
My attempt to get my pantry, budget, and waistline under control is underway, and I've been a busy bee. My goals are pretty simple: Use up the stuff I have stored in the pantry and the freezer before shelling out unnecessarily at the grocery store, keep track (but not necessarily limit) my food spending, and start planning meals with an eye to reducing my sugar intake (white carbs), upping my vegetable intake, and being sensible about fats.

Monday, February 2, 2015

Keeping Me Honest, or The Project

February 1 rolled around and with it came a number of realizations: first and foremost that my sweet tooth has gone into overdrive (not an uncommon event for me this time of year); second that my house seems to be overwhelmed with food -- my pantry, freezer, and fridge are stuffed tight; third that my knees are creaking more than they should; fourth that I've never really added up how much I spend on food each month and am suddenly curious; and fifth that I am looking for distractions from my cabin fever.

So I decided that I will embark on The Project. This Project involves three things: cooking through my bunker-of-a-survivalist-dash-epicure-who-is-sure-the-end-times-are-coming level of food stores; paying some attention to my food budget with an eye to eliminating waste (an eco-friendly goal if there ever was one); and eating more healthfully at the same time.

Saturday, January 31, 2015

British Invasion

It is a well known fact about Indian cuisine that for all its roots in ancient systems of thinking about body and spirit, it lapped up its invaders' flavors with relish, incorporating techniques and ingredients and all manner of tastes like a voracious maw, always hungry. From the Mughals came the delicacy of a court cuisine with roots in Persia and Turkey, with their nut-based kormas and saffron-scented biryanis; from the Portuguese came chilies and tomatoes and potatoes, ingredients without which most Indian cooking is basically unthinkable.

The British may have come to India for pepper, that most precious of spices, but they stayed for much more. And their time in India had the effect that any other colonizer has on every other land, though perhaps different in its particulars: brutality, exploitation, theft, an abhorrence of the native, all the things one comes to expect of empires, including ours, now.

Monday, January 5, 2015

Hibernation Mode

I hibernated over New Year's -- my daughter wasn't around, I didn't feel like driving to New York City to meet friends, I was obsessed with knitting and Buffy the Vampire Slayer. The time was ripe for a good old-fashioned hibernation, in other words. I mostly ate popcorn and mandarin oranges, but I did manage to make one meal that I thought was fitting for my cozy lair.